Friday, August 28, 2009

Woah! Big Surf!!

I have free wifi in my hotel, which is great. We are just south of Laguna, and we drove into South Laguna for dinner.

I have yet to see anything particularly LGBT friendly about this place, but as someone mentioned in a comment, Laguna is a very LGBT friendly town. It's very artsy and fun. It really has a great community. In recent years it has become very wealthy, but it still maintains some of that old feel.

The surf was pretty big today. I guess a swell came in this morning, and it was reaching 8 foot faces by the time I got to the beach. The waves were a storm swell, I think, because they were very chaotic and hard to predict. They kept breaking in different areas, and each wave had lots of water behind it.

Each wave of the set was right after the other. Just water, water, water, water, water. I don't surf because I prefer to boogie board (aka body board), and I waited a long time on the beach for a lull to get out. I got out pretty quickly, but when the set came, it kept breaking in different areas.

I paddled over and caught the 3rd wave in the set, but I wasn't moving fast enough and caught it a bit late. I realized my error and tried to pull out of the wave, which I did, but it broke and then the wave sucked me under.

This is a hard experience to explain. What happens is when a wave breaks, it creates a strong circular current, and if you are directly behind the wave when it breaks, you will get sucked under. I managed to fight the current pretty well, but did fall off my board because of all the water lashing about.

Unfortunately, when I recovered, the 4th wave of the set was already upon me, and I got cleaned up. I just caught the white wash of the 5th wave in to shore because I was annoyed and didn't want to bother going back out again.

I meant to take lots of pictures for this blog, so I brought my camera, but I just realized that I didn't put a memory card in it. Fail.



One of the readers of this blog suggested coming out to my parents during this vacation. I considered it, but have decided against it because we are so close together that we have no personal space to retreat to if needed. Also, my little brother will be around for every moment, and I think I want to tell him after I tell my parents. He is 9, and I want my parents' help in explaing this to him.

5 comments:

Pilgrim said...

Oh yeah! Getting tumbled by the waves instead of riding them is annoying...As for your come out, you do the right thing, so your Bro might not be left puzzled or whatever. But then maybe, he might already have an idea about it. Propz Pilgrim

Aek said...

No memory card?! FAIL, LOL.

What about your twin brother? Going to tell him and get some backup?

Anywho, I hope you're enjoying your time there. ^_^

xLogan said...

Guessing yuo're having a fun time, keep on rockin' haha..

Anonymous said...

A bit random, but is your real name Jason Carwin? Hopefully not, since I just googled that name and it was on the first page of the search engine.

Jason Carwin said...

no, it's not my real name.